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Spring swapping: change the weight, keep the switch

If you like how a switch sounds and feels but not how heavy it is, you do not need a new switch. You need new springs. Here is how to choose them and how to swap them without losing parts or a weekend.

A mechanical switch is a small assembly of four or five parts: a top housing, a stem, a spring, a bottom housing and, on most switches, a metal contact leaf. The spring is the only part that sets the weight, and in MX-style switches it simply sits loose between the stem and the bottom housing. Replace it and you change the weight and the shape of the force curve while keeping the stem, the housing and most of the sound. That is why spring swapping is one of the most common modifications in the hobby, usually done at the same time as lubing.

Why people swap springs

  • The switch is too light or too heavy. The most common reason. A 5 to 10 g change is very noticeable.
  • The stock springs ping. Some switches ship with springs that ring audibly. Replacing and lubing them fixes it.
  • A different force curve. Long, two-stage or progressive springs change how the press builds, not just the final weight.
  • Balancing a tactile. A heavier spring can make a tactile bump feel less pronounced; a lighter one makes the bump stand out more.

If you are not sure what weight you want, read our switch weights guide first.

Choosing springs

Springs are sold by weight, length and type. Aftermarket springs are usually rated at bottom-out, so a "62 g" spring means roughly 62 g at the bottom of the stroke in a standard MX-style switch.

Length. Standard springs are short and compress less when installed, giving a light start and a steep build. Long springs, often around 20 to 22 mm, are more compressed in the housing from the start, so the press feels firmer from the top and the curve is flatter. Many people describe long springs as smoother and more consistent.

Type. Single-stage springs build evenly. Two-stage springs combine a soft section and a firm section, giving a light initial press and a firmer bottom that cushions bottoming out. Progressive springs increase their rate gradually.

Finish. Gold-plated and stainless springs are available. The finish mostly affects corrosion resistance and appearance. Lubing has a much bigger effect on feel and sound than plating.

A practical approach: if you are unsure, buy a small pack of two weights 5 to 8 g apart, try both on a handful of keys, then buy a full set of the one you prefer.

Tools

  • Switch opener. A small tool that presses the housing clips on several sides at once. Openers are cheap and match common switch styles.
  • Switch puller for hot-swap boards, to remove switches from the PCB.
  • Small bag and thin oil such as Krytox 105 for bag-lubing the new springs.
  • A tray with compartments to keep stems, springs and housings separate.

Step by step

  1. Remove the switches. On a hot-swap board, pull the keycaps, then pull the switches with a switch puller, squeezing the top and bottom clips. Pull straight up.
  2. Bag-lube the new springs. Put the springs in a small bag, add a few drops of thin oil, seal and shake for about thirty seconds. This prevents ping. See spring ping explained.
  3. Open each switch. Place it in the opener and press down until the top housing pops free. Keep track of which way the stem faces.
  4. Swap the spring. Lift out the stem, remove the old spring, and drop the new one onto the post in the bottom housing. Make sure it sits straight, not tilted against the housing wall.
  5. Reassemble. Put the stem back in the same orientation, press the top housing on until both clips click, and press the stem a few times to confirm it moves freely.
  6. Reinstall and test. Press the switches back into the board, checking that the pins are straight before pushing, and test every key in the keyboard tester.

Opening, swapping and closing a switch takes about a minute once you have a rhythm, so a full 60 to 70 key board is a realistic evening. If you are also lubing the stems and housings, budget considerably more; our guide to lubing switches covers that part.

Common mistakes

  • Bent pins. Switches with bent pins fail to register or damage hot-swap sockets. Straighten pins before reinstalling. Our guide to swapping switches on a hot-swap board covers this in detail.
  • Mixed parts. On boards with mixed switches, keep each type separate. Stems look similar.
  • Tilted springs. A spring resting against the housing wall makes the switch scratchy or uneven. Check before closing.
  • Lost springs. They fly. Work over a tray, not over a carpet.

Not every switch can be swapped this way

The steps above apply to MX-style switches, which covers the large majority of mechanical keyboards. Topre and other electro-capacitive boards use a rubber dome with a conical spring underneath and a different disassembly. Low-profile switches such as Kailh Choc use smaller housings and their own springs. Optical and Hall effect switches vary by maker. Check the specific switch before buying springs.

Frequently asked questions

Can I change the springs in my switches?

Yes, in almost any MX-style switch. You open each switch with a switch opener, take out the old spring, drop in the new one and close the housing again. On a hot-swap keyboard you can do this without soldering. On a soldered board you would have to desolder the switches first.

Do I need to lube new springs?

It is strongly recommended. Dry springs often ping, a metallic ring after each press. Bag-lubing them with a few drops of thin oil such as Krytox 105 removes the ring and takes only minutes for a whole set. Some springs are sold pre-lubed.

Does spring swapping change the sound?

A little. A heavier spring changes how hard you bottom out, which changes the sound of the impact, and a well-lubed spring removes ping. The housing, plate and keycaps have a larger effect on overall sound than the spring itself.

What spring length should I buy?

Aftermarket springs for MX-style switches come in standard and long versions, with long springs commonly sold around 20 to 22 mm. Check that the spring is listed as compatible with MX-style switches. Long springs feel firmer at the top of the stroke for the same bottom-out weight, and some people find them smoother.

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