Skip to content
keyboardsimulators

How to swap switches on a hot-swap keyboard

Hot-swap boards let you change switches without a soldering iron. It is simple, but there are two ways to damage the board and both are avoidable. This guide covers the process step by step.

A hot-swap keyboard has small metal sockets soldered to the circuit board. The switch pins press into those sockets and the plate holds the switch in place. Swapping a switch means pulling it out of the plate and sockets, and pressing a new one in. Our article on hot-swap vs soldered boards explains socket types and compatibility; this one is about doing the swap.

Before you start

  • Confirm the board is hot-swap. Pulling a soldered switch damages the board.
  • Check pin compatibility. 5-pin sockets take 3-pin and 5-pin switches. 3-pin boards need the two plastic side pins of 5-pin switches clipped off.
  • Check the switch family. Standard MX-style switches fit MX-style hot-swap sockets. Low-profile Choc, optical and magnetic switches need boards made for them.
  • Unplug the keyboard. Not strictly required for MX-style switches, but it avoids stray inputs and is good practice.

Tools

  • A keycap puller, ideally the wire type.
  • A switch puller, a small tool with two prongs that squeeze the switch clips.
  • A pair of tweezers or small pliers for straightening pins.
  • Optionally, a flush cutter for clipping side pins.

Removing a switch

  1. Pull the keycap. Grip it with the wire puller and pull straight up. For stabilized keys, pull evenly so the stabilizer wire is not bent.
  2. Find the clips. The switch has two clips, top and bottom (some housings have them on the sides), that hold it in the plate.
  3. Squeeze and pull. Push the switch puller prongs down over the clips until they press them in, then pull straight up with steady force. Do not rock the switch side to side.

If the switch will not come out, do not force it. Check that both clips are fully depressed. On some plates, especially thick or tight ones, it helps to press the clips individually and lift one side slightly at a time. Excessive force can pull a socket off the board, which then needs soldering to fix.

Installing a switch

  1. Inspect the pins. Both metal pins should be straight and parallel. A slightly bent pin is the single most common cause of a key not working after a swap. Straighten it with tweezers.
  2. Orient the switch. Match the orientation of the other switches, usually with the LED window or the switch logo facing the same way. Many boards have a north-facing or south-facing standard; check before you start.
  3. Line up and press. Align the pins with the socket holes, keep the switch level, and press down firmly until it clicks into the plate. If it resists more than expected, stop and check the pins.
  4. Support the socket if your board allows access underneath, or simply avoid excessive force. Most boards handle normal installation without any support.

Test immediately

Before refitting all the keycaps, plug the board in and press each new switch in the keyboard tester. A bent pin shows up as a key that never registers. A damaged socket often shows up as a key that works only intermittently. Testing as you go saves you from pulling a full row of keycaps again later. If any key types twice, check it in the chatter test.

Common problems

  • Key does not register: pull the switch, straighten the pins, reinstall.
  • Key registers intermittently: the socket may be loose or partially detached. Try another switch in the same spot; if the problem stays with the position, the socket needs repair.
  • Switch sits crooked: it is not fully seated in the plate, or one clip is not engaged. Press it down evenly.
  • Switch is loose in the plate: some plate cutouts are slightly large for some switches. It usually still works, but the key can feel less solid.

Why swap at all?

The easiest reason is to try something new. Swap a few keys you use often, such as the home row, to a different switch and live with it for a week before converting the whole board. Use the switch library and the comparison tool to shortlist candidates, and the keyboard simulator to hear simulated sounds before buying. If you only want to change the weight of switches you already like, see the spring swapping guide instead.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if my keyboard is hot-swappable?

Check the product listing for "hot-swap". Physically, pull a keycap and look at the switch: if you can see the switch is held only by the plate and there are no solder joints on the back of the circuit board under it, it is likely hot-swap. When in doubt, check with the manufacturer before pulling switches, because pulling a soldered switch will damage the board.

Can I put 5-pin switches in a 3-pin hot-swap board?

Yes, if you clip off the two small plastic side pins on the switch. Those pins only help keep the switch straight on boards without a plate; they carry no signal. A 5-pin board accepts both 3-pin and 5-pin switches without changes.

Why is a key not working after I swapped switches?

The most common cause is a bent pin that folded instead of going into the socket. Pull the switch, straighten the pin, and reinstall it with the pins lined up. Less often, the socket was pushed out of the board while pulling, which needs re-soldering, or the switch itself is faulty.

Do I need to remove the keycaps to swap switches?

Yes. The switch puller grips the clips on the top and bottom of the switch housing, which are covered by the keycap. Pull the keycap first, then the switch.

Keep learning